Distributor installation ford 2.3

Since neither of these type distributors house the necessary parts to manually adjust the timing and advance, Initial base setting is all that is necessary. The ICM coupled with the computer will make these adjustments. Pull the coil wire out of the coil and move it away from the coil so it can't jump and arc to the coil tower. Pull the number 1 spark plug wire off the spark plug. This is the closest spark plug to the radiator on the passenger side of the engine. Remove the spark plug using the spark plug socket.

Find the compression stroke on the number 1 cylinder. A helper is needed to turn the key to the start position in increments of a fraction of a second at a time. The idea is to turn the engine just a few degrees at a time while accomplishing this procedure. Place a finger over the spark plug hole for the plug just removed. This is a cool little trick you can use on any distributor to determine its rotation. Chevrolet also numbers its cylinders with odd numbers on the left driver side and even cylinders on the right.

Ford does it differently. Ford numbers its cylinders with Number One on the right front, numbered on the right side with the left side We started with Number One and worked our way around the distributor cap clockwise using a set of Summit spark plug wires.

Leave a little extra room with the spark plug wires to allow freedom of movement in the distributor. For Chevys, be careful to make sure 5 and 7 are installed correctly. If the wires are accidentally switched, the engine will not be happy. Before we try to start the engine, be sure the distributor is connected to switched power. On the outboard side of this connector, there are two smaller individual connectors—one for power from the ignition switch marked BATT and the other for a tach.

Connect a timing light to the Number One cylinder. Assuming the engine starts, make sure the engine is idling at proper idle speed and not on the fast-idle cam of the choke. If it must be changed, merely loosen the hold-down nut and adjust the distributor until the initial timing on the crankshaft is at the desired timing figure. Of course, you are free at this point to set the initial timing at its proper spec. After replacing the distributor cap and pin, ICM, plugs, wires, coolant temp sensor, oil pressure switch, the motor runs fine in park.

But acceleration up any incline, it looses power. Need the correct position of ICM wire plugs on distributor cap. Otherwise a great article thanks, with the advent of the LS, timing the dissy is going to become a lost art. Very well-said! Great instructions and I love it that you use correct grammar and spelling and oh, basic writing skills that seem to be missing from most any article on the internet today.

What a refreshing and informative read. Thank you. Your email address will not be published. Your Website. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Summit Racing Equipment. The left side is numbered , and the right side is The factory placed it in this location on most Chevy distributors. In , the new Duraspark III system was introduced. This version is based on the previous systems, but the input signal is controlled by the EEC system, rather than as function of engine timing and distributor armature position.

The distributor, rotor, cap, and control module are unique to this system; the spark plugs and plug wires are the same as those used with the Duraspark II system. Some and later engines use a special Duraspark Dual Mode ignition control module.

This module is equipped with an altitude sensor, and an economy modulator. This module, when combined with the additional switches and sensor, varies the base engine timing according to altitude and engine load conditions.

Duraspark Dual Mode ignition control modules can be identified by the three wiring harnesses emerging from the control module. Some and later Duraspark II systems used with the 5. The operation of the module is basically the same as the Duraspark Dual Mode module. So you want to use either the Red, or Blue gromet modules. Last edited: Jan 13, Kenneth S , Dec 14, Joined: Aug 3, Posts: Profile Page. Good stuffthanks. Speedwagen , Dec 14, Joined: Feb 17, Posts: 3, Profile Page.

Joined: Dec 30, Posts: 6, Profile Page. Thanks for posting a really useful and informative thread. I suspect we will be seeing more of these 4 banger engines in hot rods - especially when gas goes back up again - as it will. Weasel , Dec 15, Kenneth S , Dec 15, Joined: Jun 24, Posts: 2, Profile Page.

It goes on with a little welding. Just weld up the center oil drain hole at top and weld the outside edge of the oval holes on either side as they get too close to the gasket edge, cut off and weld up the water pump bypass elbow on the front and weld a 1"x1"x5.

Then drill the four small water holes at top of gasket and add four at bottom as two exhaust valves per cylinder and add one hole to block at 3 cylinder as missing and drill an oil passage in the rear of the block next to temp sender and through the head overhang to the oil groove between top and bottom half of head and connect with a line to oil the cams.

You can just see the Weatherhead fitting at top right for the brake line down to the block. The bolt holes line up but the dowel holes in the head are slightly offset and smaller so must be opened up. Diamond pistons and Crower rods finish up the bottom of my 2. I added Esslinger adjustable cam sprockets with adapters to the Volvo cams. I still have to add a different belt and a couple tensioners and a blower. Last edited: Dec 16, Phil , Dec 15, Joined: Feb 10, Posts: Profile Page.

Wow, someone knows more about "Pinto motors" than me! I haven't had one in 15 years so my memory is a bit fuzzy, but everything I see looks correct. How about a Part 2 with aftermarket parts, past and present? Used to love racing all the European 4 cylinder sports cars and most any six cylinder. With a Mustang 4 speed from Racer Walsh and a Mustang V-8 8" rear it would do better than on the top end. Made it from 99 miles in 1 hr. Still have the Motorsport aluminum vavle cover hanging in the garage.

Joined: Mar 29, Posts: 12, Profile Page. Unkl Ian , Dec 17, New transmission information added. Kenneth S , Apr 1, Joined: Sep 14, Posts: 5, Profile Page.

This is an awesome thread. Very informative. Joined: Apr 4, Posts: 1, Profile Page. Limey Steve , Apr 1, Joined: Mar 11, Posts: 5, Profile Page. Great thread and timely. Joined: Nov 11, Posts: 2, Profile Page. I'm getting ready to put a 2. Animal , Apr 1, Joined: Oct 19, Posts: 21 Profile Page.

Saint Louis, Il. I have a 2. I love it. There is aguy in St. Louis who supposedly is getting around hp with this based motor and huge turbo. JPG File size: Last edited: Apr 3, Phil , Apr 3, Joined: Jan 29, Posts: 97 Profile Page. I have a question about these. Here's the fix for that. Kenneth S , Oct 8, Ok, I did that. I will be putting the engine back together and in the truck tomorrow. I will keep you posted. The only thing I could see as a problem was once it was all installed and I did a test on turning it, the vanes cut into the sensors bottom.

It cleared the sensors fingers, just scraped the bottom a little. Probably about 0. Other than that, it was smooth sailing. I turned it over and over and over so it would smooth it out, then I filed down the mount a bit just to clean it up and reinstalled it. There is still clearance on it now. I will be trying it tomorrow. Thanks for all your help. Some one should be making a front cover with this cast into it. That would be the best thing for this situation. It worked great. Runs like a champ.

Joined: Jul 26, Posts: 3, Profile Page. Lorodz, I completely forgot about the manifold I got side tracked as usual , it's setting on the shelf under my glassbead cabinet when I found it and I glass beaded it a long with some other stuff so it ready to go. Kenneth S , Oct 11, Joined: Oct 26, Posts: Profile Page. Joined: Nov 6, Posts: Profile Page.

Joined: Nov 20, Posts: 12, Profile Page. Great info! I now know that I have a '83 - '88 Ranger motor. Which explains my question - I have a Esslinger 2bbl manifold with a D port and round ports on my freshly rebuilt engine What next?! I would rather not replace the head because it has been rebuilt completely and it appears competently. You said something about using a high temp epoxy to reconfigure the ports on an early cc motor, how about for mine? Any other Ideas?

Last edited: Oct 28, Kenneth S , Oct 28, Joined: Sep 3, Posts: Profile Page. Swapped the original auto for a four speed, and hit the road after an 18 month rebuild Joined: Nov 15, Posts: Profile Page.